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Natural cosmetics are having a moment — more popular than ever. Which seals of approval actually matter when you’re shopping the green jars, what separates organic cosmetics from natural cosmetics, and whether either is guaranteed cruelty-free: here’s what you need to know.
In recent years, natural cosmetics has made the leap from the dusty health-food-shop shelf into genuinely luxury territory. Gone are the days of musty balms at the co-op — now you’ll find it in concept stores, at the hairdresser, in perfumeries, and of course in polished online boutiques like najoba.de or greenglam.de. The range of luxurious, high-tech skincare and glamorous makeup built from natural ingredients has exploded. In 2016, Germany alone generated €1.15 billion in natural cosmetics sales — a 4.5 percent rise on the year before, making it the largest natural cosmetics market in the world.
Driving all of this is a shift in what buyers value and how they think. More people — women especially — are paying attention to ethical consumption, scrutinizing ingredients, production methods, and where their products actually come from. And still, everything has to look beautiful, feel good, and smell wonderful. The industry has responded in kind: cool new brands, many of them German or Austrian, keep appearing at a striking pace. Alongside the major players, young start-ups and celebrities have entered the fray too — Gisele Bündchen with her Sejaa Pure Skincare line, and, more recently, Miranda Kerr with Kora Organics.
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But the label “natural cosmetics” doesn’t always deliver what it promises. Greenwashing is rife in this industry, partly because the term itself has no legal definition or protection. In principle, it refers to skincare made from plant-based raw materials and products from living animals, such as milk and honey. Ingredients sourced from dead vertebrates — mink oil or marmot fat, still used in conventional creams — are off-limits in natural cosmetics, which makes the category largely vegetarian, with one notable exception: carmine, extracted from insects, which supplies the red pigment in many lipsticks. Anyone seeking products with zero animal-derived ingredients should look specifically for vegan cosmetics.
Natural vs. Organic Cosmetics — What’s the Difference?
Natural cosmetics contain a high proportion of plant-based ingredients; organic cosmetics go a step further, sourcing a high proportion of those plant-based ingredients from certified organic farming. The certifications reflect that distinction. “Natrue” is among the best-known seals for natural cosmetics, while anyone drawn to organic cosmetics should look for “Ecocert” and “BDIH.” Products carrying these certifications are guaranteed free of synthetic fragrances, paraffins, and dyes, built instead from genuinely natural ingredients.
Is Natural Cosmetics Always Cruelty-Free?
Here’s where it pays to look closely. Animal testing for cosmetic ingredients has been banned across the EU since 2010 — but products whose ingredients were tested on animals before that date can still legally be sold. Certifications help cut through the confusion here too: look for the “Bunny with the Protective Hand” label and the “Leaping Bunny” seal.
Certified natural cosmetics are free of petroleum-based ingredients and synthetic fragrances, dyes, and preservatives. They care for and enhance skin, hair, and nails using natural pigments and oils.
Does Natural Cosmetics Actually Work?
Thanks to sophisticated active-ingredient complexes and highly effective natural compounds, organic creams — particularly in the anti-aging category — perform just as well as their conventional counterparts. The picture looks a little different in decorative cosmetics. Vegan nail polish is free of harmful chemicals, but it doesn’t wear quite as well, and lipsticks and eyeshadows are often less richly pigmented than their chemical rivals. For a natural, understated look, though, that hardly matters. Mineral makeup, on the other hand, is genuinely ideal for sensitive skin — easy to apply and blend. Anyone prone to allergies should steer clear of products containing essential oils like chamomile, arnica, or marigold, which can trigger reactions of their own; conventional cosmetics, meanwhile, often contain hormonally active substances that carry their own health risks.
Our tip: Ask a trusted esthetician what your skin actually needs, then choose the right certified natural cosmetics line for your skin type.
